INTO THE MYSTIC

Seems like I’m making a habit of touting breweries before they even open these days (see Avondale Brewing Company and Brewery Vivant). But in the case of the Mystic Brewery, there’s a logical reason for my pre-emptive promotion.

The Mystic Brewery will be the first brewery (to my knowledge) in the working-class town of Chelsea, MA. Chelsea was a mythic town in the mind of a young Brother Barley. When driving across the rusted Mystic Bridge in and out of Boston, I would look across at the low, humble homes and storefronts of the tiny, economically-depressed city and wonder what life was like for the denizens there. While I never lived or worked in Chelsea, the city indirectly played a major role in my life…

My paternal grandfather and grandmother’s families, along with countless other Jewish immigrants, settled in the “ghettos” of Chelsea at the turn of the 20th century. Chelsea was something like the Lower East Side of Boston, and hundreds of poor, working-class Jewish families got their start there after immigrating from Eastern Europe in the late 1800s and early 1900s. My father was born in Chelsea and lived there for a few years before he and my grandparents moved to one of the bedroom communities on Boston’s North Shore. Most of the other Jewish families in Chelsea followed suit and the demographics of the town changed dramatically. Today, the city is home to a thriving Hispanic culture which makes up almost half of the town’s population.

The fortunes of Chelsea fell precipitously late in the 20th century, and in 1991 the state put the city into receivership due to horrific financial practices. That was the low point for Chelsea and many, including my grandparents, were saddened to watch their former hometown become such a shell of its former self. But things change…

The news of the Mystic Brewery’s opening is another feather in the cap for a city that has entered into its second decade of a remarkable renewal. Following the fiscal crisis of the early 90s, Chelsea completely revamped its government and began focusing on improving the quality of services while stabilizing the city’s finances. In 1998, those efforts paid off when the town was named one of the National Civic League’s All-American Cities.*

*An honor that my grandmother laughed at in the most sarcastic manner possible. If you know any Jewish grandmothers, you know the laugh I’m talking about.

Despite the city’s incredible turn-around, it was still missing the crowning jewel that all great cities possess…a hometown brewery. Hence my excitement to hear the news about Mystic.

The Mystic Brewery is the brainchild of “MIT trained fermentation scientists” Bryan and Emily Greenhagen and professional brewer James Nicholson. Sounds promising. Their goal, according to the press release they sent out, is to “focus on making pre-industrial style beers, like those from Belgium, but a with a distinct New England agricultural influence.” I have no idea what that means but I’m giddy with anticipation. They also talk a bit about producing “finely crafted after-dinner malt cordials”. Bryan and Emily, your ideas are intriguing to me and I wish to subscribe to your newsletter.

The Greenhagens are attempting to isolate native New England brewing yeasts to capture “our local ‘beer terroir’” and their flagship brew will be a European-style saison. The first batch should be shipped in a few months with barrel-aged brews coming on-line for the holidays. You’ll have to wait until next year to get a taste of those enigmatic “cordials” that the Greenhagens have promised since they require “extensive aging”.

I’m excited about all of that, but what I’m most excited about is the fact that the Mystic brain-trust seems to understand why their selection of Chelsea, MA as the home for their brewery is so important. Sure, it’s close to Boston, a beer-swilling city filled with knowledgeable Aleheads. And sure, the rent was probably a hell of a lot cheaper there than in Boston proper. But the Greenhagens “get” that there’s more to Chelsea than cheap real estate and proximity to the Hub. As Bryan notes:

“Chelsea is…a place that has real character. There is nothing pasteurized or homogenized about Chelsea. It’s been the home to hopeful and hardworking immigrants who built the fabric of America for generations. It’s a great place for a tribute to our collective origins and celebration of our cultural diversity.”

Couldn’t have said it better myself, Bryan. Good luck with your endeavors and count me amongst those who are looking forward to Mystic’s offerings with eager anticipation. I hope my fellow Aleheads will raise a glass with me and say “Cheers to Chelsea”. It’s nice to see the city continuing to prosper after so many years of hardship. It gives hope to all of those small towns looking for inspiration in these challenging times. Remember, when all seems lost, look to beer to lead the way.

Advertisements

7 comments

  1. Svetlana weeps for your humble town you drived past in limousine. She too was once working girl.

  2. Go back to your bedroom community.

  3. Stay out of Malibu, Sixpack.

  4. What is an after-dinner malt cordial? Why is it lunchtime but I want one?

  5. Kid Carboy Jr. · · Reply

    Is it possible that “after-dinner malt cordial” just means “beer”? As in, like, big, barrel-aged beer? Or are they going to be selling little tinctures of “potent potables”?

  6. Kid:

    Check out description for their upcoming Mystic Entropy: “A Mystic Brewery original, Mystic Entropy defies categorization. A true high-gravity creation at 18% alcohol, Entropy is fermented in four stages with four different yeast strains.

    First, Mystic’s “Wigglesworth” house Belgian strain brings out earthiness and dark fruit, which is then amplified and rounded by a French white wine yeast. Then follows a six month fermentation with sherry yeast to bring out a smooth and complex character, developing toasted nut and cherry flavors. Entropy then gets polished with an English barleywine yeast — adding yet one more layer of rich flavor and completing the fermentation. We expect Entropy can be aged for over 20 years and will change pleasantly as it continues to mature, developing new characteristics over the years.

    Whatever you may call it, a barley port, imperial Belgian, a triplequadruple, or a “Boston Cognac”, Entropy is a rare epicurean experience that pairs beautifully with rich, vanilla based deserts.”

    I always thought a Boston Cognac was something way, way different.

  7. Kid:
    We started using the term malt cordial to try to more accurately describe what it is. Definitely a lot of barrel aged beer could be thought of that way but something like that dosen’t necessarily have to be aged in a barrel. Legally, no these aren not beers; they are malt liquors. We have no problem calling it that, but the brown paper bag jokes that it causes don’t seem to represent what we are trying to do very well. So…Malt Cordial: a malt based, very high gravity drink that you have very small amounts of, usually at the end of a meal. But, in the end “malt cordial” is just shorter than “big, barrel aged beer”.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: